It is never over till its over. I thought I had eaten enough in 2 days to suffice for the week. Some of the best food was still to be had. Every morning started with dreams of some better food than the prior day. Our last morning in Amritsar started with a long walk and then a little bit of scurrying to be ready in time for the breakfast of a lifetime – Amritsari Kulche.

The local favorite keeps changing from time to time and we had polled quite a few locals to get the name of the current one. We were going back to Ranjeet Avenue, but this time in a tiny market in a residential area. Hansraj Kulchewala didn’t make himself easy to find – our slow-moving e-rickshaw found him nonetheless. The eatery occupied several shops in the market and only one small one was dedicated to some seating – most of that was taken. We got a small table for the kids and the rest of us found a standing table.

The Kulchas and the cholle that came with them were beyond words incredible. The spice level was just right and the kulchas were oily, heavy but still delicious. It was hard to stop and even harder to decide which of the two days we had a better breakfast. I should have stopped after a plate of two kulchas, but it was just so hard to stop at any time, two was impossible.

An idea was floated to have some coffee instead of heading back to the hotel. My friends had been to this coffee shop “double shot” and had been raving off it. It wasn’t far from where we were, so we stopped for a shot of caffeine. The place was up a narrow staircase in a mall. There was a strong aroma of coffee and that already made me love the place. We got cold coffees and a slice of cake to share – fabulous.

This was quite unlike most of the places we had eaten at before. It was clean, swanky, and airconditioned. We headed back to the hotel, even though there was sometime before check-out and the train. The hotel had a rooftop bar which we had briefly tried before for beers – this time we wanted to test their true mettle. Three of us went up and asked the bartender to make the best cocktails he could – three different ones. The bartender did not disappoint – he took a while but then came back with 3 delicious drinks and some good conversation.

We checked out, left our luggage and then headed to Makkhan, a fancy restaurant close to the hotel for our last and only slightly disappointing meal of the trip. As I stepped inside I realized that it was the one place I had eaten at on my last transit in Amritsar. I wasn’t super impressed then, but I thought I may have ordered the wrong things. We ordered a lot of things this time, none were spectacular – some were good. The best part of the meal was the strong beer, that felt amazing in the hot weather. We left for the train station soon after, for a relatively eventless ride home.